Choosing the Right Wood Finish

Refinishing wood is a daunting task. You have to strip the wood, sand it, prep it for retreatment, and finally, refinish. It can be quite scary to do for the first time, especially when it’s your favourite piece of furniture or some beautiful hardwood flooring that it would be a crime to ruin. Before you resort to restoring your beautifully crafted pieces, make sure you have exhausted your options for maintenance and treatment of the current finish it has. For a full breakdown on how to keep the wood in your house in great shape for as long as possible, visit our article on wood maintenance.

Now, if you’re sure that there is nothing that can be done to coax what you have back to life, and you’re positive that you don’t want to hire a professional to take care of it, the first step to restoring your wooden homeware is to strip the wood of its current finish. Not all treatments require the same stripper, so you can read all about what solvent your treatment needs here. Once you have stripped your wood clean, give the surfaces the correct preparatory work, outlined here, and you can begin figuring out which finishing treatment you’d like to use. There are plenty of options, and each product will yield a very different result. This post will provide you with a guide on some of the most common finishes, the results they bring, and how to get the most from each of them.

Penetrating and Surface Finishes

The first distinction that needs to be made is whether you want a penetrating or surface finish. Penetrating finishes soal into the grain of the wood, whereas surface finishes sit on top. In general, Penetrating finishes are easier to apply and grant you a more subtle, natural look. Surface finishes, although harder to apply and less natural-looking, are far more durable and will protect the surface better. For pieces that will receive little to no contact, a penetrating finish may be great for the most natural look possible. For items that will receive more traffic and abuse, a surface finish will likely be the best option.

Penetrating Finishes:

Tung oil

About - Among Penetrating finishes, the most balanced option is usually Tung Oil. Although there are other options available on the market, we prefer tung because it tends to have the fewest downsides (some oils become sticky or discolour too much). We recommend Tung oil because of its ease of application, non-toxicity, and the way it highlights the definition of the wood grain. 

Application - it’s best to use a lint-free rag rather than a traditional paintbrush. A brush does not allow you to apply as evenly as you want, and may leave streaking in the highly viscous oil. After prepping your wood, apply oil to your cloth, and start rubbing down the surface with the grain of the wood, being diligent not to miss any spots. Once the surface is completely covered, let the oil set into the wood for 5-10 minutes, or until the oil becomes tacky to the touch. Once that is the case, take a fresh cloth, and wipe away any excess oil on the surface, and allow it to dry for 3-4 hours. Repeat steps for three or four coats or until the colour and sheen is even.

Surface Finishes:

There are a few common surface finishes on the market today. Shellac, deriving from the lac bug, provides the most natural of the surface finishes, with a beautiful amber hue. The only downside is it tends to be the least durable of the three we talk about in this article. Polyurethane treatments tend to be the most durable, but leave a finish that many refer to as plasticky. Polys are also time-consuming to apply, sometimes taking days to finish fully. Lacquers appear to be the best of both worlds, being quite durable, but not quite as artificial looking. Lacquer also dries quickly, which means you can often finish in a day, however it makes the application far more difficult than the other options because you need to work much faster, with fewer mistakes.

Shellac

About - One of the most common top-coats, Shellac is a reliable finish that a lot of the woodwork you see will be treated with. Before you begin, make sure to find wax-free shellac. A product with wax content will be far more difficult to use as it inhibits your ability to use multiple layers. Shellac is a thicker product, so you may like to dilute it slightly with some denatured alcohol. Doing so will create a thinner layer of your finish, and you will be easier to build up smooth layers. This step is completely optional and rather unscientific in terms of ratios. Try starting with two-thirds shellac and one-third alcohol in a separate container, and add more of either as you decide what you think is best. If you’d like, you can apply the shellac to a scrap piece of wood to get the hang of it before moving on to your fine woods.

Application - Apply your shellac with a lint-free rag, wiping with the grain. Make sure to work fairly quickly, because shellac dries fast (especially if you mixed in denatured alcohol). Once finished, soak your applicator in some denatured alcohol to prevent it from hardening. Wait about 15 minutes before lightly sanding your surfaces with the grain using #600 sandpaper. Once done, remove all dust and reapply a second coat. The second coat will be more difficult because the wood will be less “thirsty”. As a result, streaking will be more common. Repeat these steps for around four coats, or until you have an even surface, and you are finished!

Polyurethane

About - Polyurethane is one of the most commonly used finishes today, as it offers some of the best durability on the market. There are two main types of Polyurethane: oil and water-based. Oil-based polyurethanes will provide a slightly more amber finish, but the cleanup process can be difficult, as the poly is not water-soluble. Water-based polyurethanes, on the other hand, will offer no colour, but clean up is a breeze with just soap and water.

Application - Soak your brush in the polyurethane for a while, allowing your bristles to store as much finish as possible. Rather than applying the polyurethane like you would paint, start on one side, and holding your brush at a 45-degree angle, apply by pulling the brush from one side of the wood to the other. This will allow the least amount of streaking and bubbling, resulting in the most even finish. If you miss a patch, leave it for the next coat. Trying to dab in a spot will lead to ridges, and it is easier to do it later. Once you’ve coated the entire surface, refer to the can to see how long you should wait before applying your second (and third) coat. You can expect four to six hours, but some products vary. Once dry, lightly sand the surfaces between coats with #220 sandpaper to even out the surface. Before proceeding with the next coat, make sure to wipe off any dust from the sanding process. Repeat the application process until you are satisfied with the finish, which will likely be 2-4 coats. 

Lacquer

About - Lacquer is a finish that will provide a decent balance between shellac and polyurethane. Originally, this product was made from the lacquer gum tree, however synthetic versions are common now. Lacquers come in different colours and shines, however even the clear coat will provide a slightly yellow hue.

Application - To apply lacquer, use the same application principles as polyurethane, using some slight variations. You will have to move slightly faster, because lacquer dries far quicker than polyurethane. This also means that any streaking or bubbles you produce may be set forever (which is why we recommend a test piece of scrap prior to starting on your fine furniture). The main differences between polyurethane and Lacquer arise with drying times and sanding between coats. Lacquer dries far quicker than polyurethane (around 30 minutes), so you can apply multiple coats in a day. The second reason that your finishing time will be far quicker, is because you don’t need to sand your layers between coats, just slap another one on and wait! For a more professional look, you may like to lightly sand the layer before the final coat to remove any dust bumps or bubbles.  

Top-coats are an essential part of protecting your wood and making it look phenomenal for as long as possible. Although it can be daunting, finishing your furniture isn’t too difficult. Make sure to pick a product that will look the way you want it, and one that you will have the patience to see through looking incredible. Choose a day where you can dedicate most of your time to the process, and try to enjoy yourself. If you can do those things, refinishing the woodworking in your house can be a breeze, and a fun weekend activity.

For those who just refinished your furniture, we’d love to see it! Tag us in your photos on Instagram @Livingedgedesignbc